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Posts posted by Bianca

  1. Hi @Leo_W,

    So, I will try to explain to you something from that schematic.... I see that you opened a lot of topics, some of them answered by my colleagues. I suggest you keep all the questions related to a board, or to the same problem in the same topic, otherwise, we can't follow up with you. 

    You asked about IC20... That is an LDO that makes the FT3V3 from the USB 5V0... all the FTDI environment is powered by that FT3V3. 

    Like I said previously in a topic, the FTDI has an internal LDO that makes generates the voltage for the core. Initially I thought the FTDI was powered from 5V0 so it made a 3V3 but in this particular circuit, it's powered from FT3V3 and it makes the FT1V8. 

    I'm telling all of this because:

    - IC5 is an EEPROM. It is powered from FT3V3 and has pull-ups to FT3V3 and everything that comes from the FTDI is also 3V3.... I don't know on which pin you measured 1V but unless a component from the whole environment is burned internally, you wouldn't be able to see 1V... If IC20 would be burned you wouldn't see anything. 

    -If you really see 1V instead of 3V3 it means that the FTDI is actually powered from 1V. The minimum requirements for the FTDI is 3V. I mentioned before that it has an internal LDO that makes 1V8 from 3V3 for the core.... it is physically impossible to make 1V8 from 1V0, therefore the FTDI shouldn't work at all. 

    -The fact that you can see the board in device manager even if it's not correctly recognized, implies that the FTDI is working, therefore you have at least 3V on FT3V3. With just 1V, nothing should've shown up. 

    I am still bugged by that 1V, which I don't know where you measured, since you said you don't know the chip part number, but for now we'll try to see if we can al least communicate and reprogram the EEPROM. If that works, you don't have an electrical problem, but a driver one. 

    It'll send you a private message with some instructions.

    Best regards,


  2. Hi @Leo_W

    In this picture your board is turned off. Does it power when you switch it on? Does the power led go on? What do you mean by weird voltage on the VCC pin of IC? What did you measure there?

    If the board does power on, can you tell me what shows up in device manager? If anything at all, even if unknown device, give me the Hardware ID..



  3. Hi @Leo_W,

    That's an internal voltage generated by the FTDI... There's a missing page in the schematic that includes the programming solution which is a proprietary design.

    Best regards,


  4. @BALA,

    Well, you seem to have a short circuit to the 3V3 rail. I don't know if all the others are functioning well. If you can find the short circuit and remove the component that's causing it and replace it with another one, your board should work again, if the other rails are fine. Check the schematic for the 3V3 rail and try to look at the board. Maybe there is a component (capacitor/resistor) visible burned and you can remove it.



  5. Hi @BALA,

    Can you please give me more details with the work you were doing when the board shut down? Were you using external devices on the IOs? I need details like, was the board powered just with usb or through AUX? Were you touching the board at that point?

    You said you checked the PS voltage drop to 24V... This is confusing... You meant 2.4V? Where did you measure?

    Is the board not functioning just with USB or also with AUX?

    If you tried just using the USB, is it possible to power it through AUX as well and see of it works?

    Can you please measure some voltages on the board? 

    If you power through aux: C137 , C144 (they are both near the power Jack)

    If you power through USB: C146 (see the marking below TX LED, below USB)

    In the same area around IC11, please also check the voltage on : C124, C127, C120


    If one of those fail to provide any voltage, please turn off the board and check for short circuit on the rail. 




  6. Hi Takashi,

    I am not very sure what you are asking. If you are referring to the XADC Pmod, I can tell you that this is wired to the auxiliary analog input pins of the FPGA. The pins can be configured as analog input, or digital input/output. The XADC is a dual channel 12-bit ADC converter and can go up to 1MSPS.

    The VCC pin of the Pmod is able to provide 3.3V . The FPGA Bank (Bank 15) where the analog pins are connected is also powered at 3.3V.

    If you want more information about the XADC and how you can use it, you can check the Xilinx UG480

    For other information you can also check the Reference Manual:



  7. Hi @yunus,

    We received an email on support regarding your issue from the distributor. We'll move the discussion there. Also, please check your private messages.



  8. @FrozenW,

    Zybo Z7 can be powered through USB only, without a wall supply or a battery. Please look at the jumper position to be set between VU5V0 and USB like on the picture below. 


    Check the markings on the board for the proper way to power the Zybo. You shouldn't have to use your Discovery to power the Zybo.



  9. I couldn't really say if it's harder or easier but for the Pcam we already provide an IP, example projects and even a workshop documentation. 

    You can see info regarding the camera, lens, projects and what we offer for it on the Pcam 5C resource center page:

    The IP and demo project are public on our github:


  10. Hello,

    Well, the FPGA is the same, so what you want to look at, are the other features like the memory, Audio, Digital I/O. Maybe you also want to use some buttons or switches at some point, and you want them on the board and not as expansion. 

    Between PYNQ Z1 and Arty Z7, the only difference is that the PYNQ has a microphone and Arty Z7 doesn't, otherwise they are identical from the specs point of view.

    With this in mind, I will talk about the comparison between the Arty Z7 and Zybo Z7...

    They both have HDMI In and Out, but if you also want Audio codec you can find that only on Zybo Z7. the DDR3 is 1024MB on ZyboZ7 and 512MB on Arty Z7. 

    If you are interested in more DIO pins, Arty Z7 has 9 more through the Arduino expansion shield. 

    Zybo Z7 though, comes with the Pcam connector in case at some point you want to switch the type of camera used. 

    You can find below a table with the specs from our last year catalog. I hope this gives you a better overview to what might help you better in your work. You'll probably get your work done with either one. My personal suggestion, if you allow it, is to go with the Zybo Z7 as it was designed to be used for video processing, as we added the camera. The double memory is also a big advantage. Arty Z7 and PYNQ Z1 are more into the entry and hobby level. Choose what has the optimal set of features to ease your work and what fits your budget best. 


    Best regards,


  11. Hi Claudio,

    The same product will have different codes: 410-XXX, 210-XXX for different stages in the manufacturing process. For example on the PCB you'll see 200-338 that is assigned just for the PCB without the assembly. 210-338 was the assembled device, prototype that went for certification.

    410 is the code for the assembled product + package, visible on the website.

    Since at the time we did the CE test the product was a prototype of the final revision, we used the internal 210-338.

    Regardless of the initial code, the product is identified with the numbers after the "-".